Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
28 mm ISO 3200 for 1/125 sec. at ƒ/7.1

Kodakara-yu Public Bathhouse (1929)

Location: Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum, Tokyo

Timestamp: 15:41 on October 25, 2023

Japanese bathing culture is a rich tapestry woven with two main threads: the communal experience of sento and the natural wonders of onsen.

Sento, the traditional public bathhouses, offer an oasis of relaxation in urban areas, welcoming patrons to cleanse themselves, unwind, and foster connections with neighbors.

Onsen, on the other hand, harness the healing properties of natural hot spring waters, nestled in serene landscapes often associated with resorts and ryokan.

In this article, we'll explore the nuances between these quintessentially Japanese experiences, delving into their cultural significance, cost, and unique offerings. Join me on this journey through the soothing waters of Japan's baths.

Sento: An Urban Oasis

Sento, the traditional public bathhouses, serve as urban sanctuaries, inviting patrons to cleanse their bodies, unwind, and foster connections with neighbors.

Unlike onsen, sento typically utilize municipal water, heated and circulated for the patrons' comfort. The Kodakara-yu (子宝湯) public bathhouse, captured in the accompanying photo, stands as a testament to this cultural tradition, its origins dating back to 1929.

On the men’s side of the sento, a captivating mural of Mt. Fuji graces the walls, enhancing the serene atmosphere.

Over the past four decades, I've frequented three or four sento whenever one was within walking distance of my flat. One vivid memory stands out: an owner explaining that although their bath used natural spring water, it required a slight boost in temperature through the addition of municipal water. This experience illuminated the subtle yet significant differences between sento and onsen.

There are some of you who might not be fully aware of the difference between the two major types of public baths in Japan.

Sento, represented by the characters "銭湯," combine "coin, money, or 0.01 yen" (銭) and "hot water" (湯), symbolizing facilities that utilize heated water with a fee.

In contrast, onsen, denoted by "温泉," combine "warm" (温) and "natural spring or fountain" (泉), signifying baths fed by natural hot spring water piped into the pools. While the prevalence of sento has diminished with modern homes incorporating bathing facilities after the war, these communal retreats remain a important communal center of Japanese urban areas.

My initial visit to a sento in the 1980s cost a modest ¥250. Today, the typical fee has risen to around ¥520. Beyond the economical aspect, what makes sento truly special is the spaciousness they offer compared to the often cramped designs of household baths.

This became acutely apparent when, in the ‘90s, I broke my arm during a Judo tournament. The sento provided a haven where I could maneuver comfortably without the risk of bumping my injury, unlike my tiny Japanese bath at home.

Beyond the physical comfort, sento offer a unique social space. Conversations sparked in the bath led to the formation of enduring bonds with my neighbors. Weekly rendezvous at the sento became a cherished ritual, an opportunity to unwind, discuss our weeks, and enjoy post-bath refreshments in the lobby, fostering a sense of community.

Discovering Onsen: Nature's Healing Retreats

Onsen, in contrast, tap into the healing properties of natural hot spring waters. Typically in picturesque landscapes or seascapes associated with resorts and ryokan (Japanese style inns), onsen provide a tranquil escape. These facilities often feature rotenburo (露天風呂) open-air baths, enhancing the experience.

Onsen experiences are often intertwined with traditional Japanese inns, known as ryokan, primarily located in scenic resort areas. These areas could be nestled by the sea, such as the picturesque town of Atami in Shizuoka Prefecture, or tucked away deep within the serene mountains, like the renowned Hakone in Kanagawa Prefecture.

In these retreats, onsen baths are a hallmark feature. While some onsen baths are exclusive, reserved solely for the ryokan's guests, others extend their warm waters to day visitors, allowing them to enjoy the soothing baths during specific hours without requiring an overnight stay.

The cost of indulging in the onsen experience at a ryokan, without the necessity of spending the night, varies widely. Depending on the location and facilities, visitors can expect to pay anywhere from ¥800 to as much as ¥3,000 for the privilege, particularly in regions like Kanagawa and Shizuoka Prefectures. These rates provide access to the tranquil ambiance and rejuvenating waters, allowing individuals to immerse themselves in the therapeutic embrace of the onsen without committing to an overnight stay.

One memorable winter evening on the shores of the Izu Peninsula stands out vividly in my memory. As I relaxed in the rotenburo overlooking the Pacific Ocean, snowflakes gently fell, creating a surreal ambiance—a blend of soothing warmth and nature's delicate touch, an experience I cherish to this day.

Whether you choose the communal charm of a sento or the natural allure of an onsen, I encourage you not to hesitate. Embrace this quintessential Japanese experience. Who knows, you might forge enduring friendships, especially within the welcoming embrace of a sento. Dive in and discover the warmth of Japan's baths and the connections they foster.

References:

Kodakara-yu Public Bathhouse (1929)

Tokyo Streetcar from 1962

Billboard/Signboard Architecture in Tokyo from Late 1920s